Florida Sport Fishing Magazine
DESTINATION FISH: This is no bluff!
AS SEEN IN THE MAY/JUNE 2006 ISSUE By Jan Stephen Maizler
Even though I have always felt that the Abacos offer a rainbow of fishing venues, my recent experience at Green Turtle Cay delivered the proverbial light tackle pot of gold. In retrospect, I cannot recall such large numbers of trophy-sized Bahamian bonefish per square mile in addition to so many strong, hungry reef gamesters tucked into such shallow water.The reasons for this bounty are clear. While Green Turtle Cay is separated from the northeast Abaco mainland by close to two miles of bay, the northeast side of this island features a barrier reef, and then a steep drop into a near abyssal pond called the Atlantic Ocean- where all sorts of fish grow big!
The comparatively small size of Green Turtle Cay and its oceanic position, coupled with the nearby cuts in the reef, allow larger gamesters to approach the island along its eastern shores and work their way west into the bay. But let’s scroll back to the beginning of this adventure, which had its own special brand of excitement.
The planning for my trip and my destination of Bluff House Beach Hotel and fishing with the area’s top flats and light tackle guide, Captain Rick Sawyer, was carefully set in October. This month was supposedly a time of year when hurricanes are on the wane and winter fronts belong to the future. However, a late season storm by the name of Wilma changed all of that. South Florida took a severe beating, as did the northernmost Bahamas. Finally, a month after my original plan called for, I was on a flight from Fort Lauderdale to Treasure Cay, which is on the Abaco mainland, only a couple of miles inshore of Green Turtle.
November brought inevitable changes in climate that ushers in winter to this region. As the plane touched down on the Treasure Cay runway, it was easy to feel the powerful winds of a recently passed front. I grabbed a quick taxi ride to the ferry that would shuttle me across the bay to Green Turtle. As I boarded the vessel with my luggage and rod tube, the cool brisk winds were now joined by a substantial shower, yet the vessel’s ample cabin kept all the passengers snug and dry. The passage to the White Sound area of Green Turtle Cay featured stiff 20 mph winds that created little whitecaps that were barely visible in the waning light. As we got into the lee of the Sound, the wavelets were replaced by the constant splashes of huge schools of balao being savaged by aggressive schools of tarpon. The kings fed with abandon; one forty-pound fish exploded within a few feet of our ferry vessel as it pursued a tasty baitfish. The white water that accompanied its strike gave off a luminous flash that quickly subsided in the darkness.
All these conditions gave me a magic kind of introduction to the Bluff House. The ferry had radioed Bluff House of my arrival, so an attendant with raincoat and a covered golf cart eased my transfer into the resort. My evening registration was accomplished at Bluff House’s Jolly Roger Bar & Bistro. A few quick formalities were followed by friendly welcomes by staff while a colorful libation called a Tranquil Turtle started my evening’s refreshments. I settled into a comfortable waterfront table and dined on a late, first-rate supper of conch, lobster, steak, and Key lime pie.
When my meal was at an end, a staff member drove me to the top of the hill where my room stood. The interior was huge and was set off with luxurious Caribbean appointments. However, the most striking element of this grand room was its exquisite balcony view which overlooked the ocean below.
After settling in, I gave my Green Turtle guide, Captain Rick Sawyer, a call. When we discussed the weather, he said we were in a “squeeze play” between a departing front and an approaching low-pressure system. He said that unless the conditions worsened, we’d be able to fish the next day and would hopefully be able to find some decent action. Those reassuring words, plus my striking nighttime entrance to the island, made deep sleep easy to attain.
Morning came quickly. After preparation, I left my room atop the bluff. As I strolled down the hill towards the Jolly Roger for breakfast, I watched an early morning unfolding which featured a brisk northeast wind under a partly cloudy sky. A hearty breakfast was satisfying and temporarily took away my weather doubts. As I was finishing the last few drops of coffee, I noticed Captain Rick approaching the dock adjacent to my waterfront table. I was pleased to see that his flats fishing rig was a 17 ft. Maverick paired with a 90 horsepower Yamaha four-stroke. The rig looked quite capable of easily handling rough open waters.
As we eased out of White Sound Harbor, we began to lay out our battle plans. It was good that we’d chosen a lunar period that featured neap tides, since the now-rising tide turbocharged by the strong onshore winds made the ocean flats quite deep. Rick said we’d fish the lee sides and western flats of Green Turtle and the cay’s adjoining keys. Our specific poling strategy was to work the sandy strips alongside the pine tree-lined shoreline where visibility would be at its best.In contrast to my own two-stroke engine, Rick’s four-stroke remained quiet when he advanced the throttle.
As we came on plane, he turned his skiff northward and hugged the rocky slopes of the island for wind protection. We crossed a windy cut quite comfortably, and Rick slid his skiff into a winding creek that eventually led to calm water. Around the bend, I could make out another white-capped ocean inlet.As Rick climbed to the poling tower, he encouraged me to use a fresh shrimp with 10lb. spin tackle. He felt spinning gear offered the best cast control during such adverse conditions. The large shrimp would be fine since the wind-riffled surface would muffle the landing of the big bait. As we began to work the sandy shoreline, we spotted a hefty mutton snapper of about 15 pounds roll up along a nearby edge, but the colorful fish quickly bolted at the sight of our skiff. However, this was a good sign that fish were feeding on the flats. Within another minute of poling, Rick spotted a shadow in the distance and instructed me to cast the bait to the two o’clock position within six feet of the shoreline. I quickly complied with an accurate cast, and as the bait settled to the bottom in about twelve inches of water, I too saw the large silhouette ease up to the presentation. It felt like my heart stopped beating as I stood motionless in anticipation. My bait disappeared and instantly my line tightened. I quickly jab-struck the fish a few times for good measure. The line flew off the reel, and I knew I was into a healthy bonefish. In about five minutes, we released a very respectable seven to eight pound bone.
We poled for another half hour without seeing too much. As we rounded another bend, Rick and I both spotted a good-sized ocean tally of about ten pounds tailing forty feet from us next to the shoreline. I simply couldn’t resist, as this is not a typical fish in my home waters of Biscayne Bay. I had an instant take and struck the fish. Much like its predecessor, it gave an excellent fight. As I brought the exhausted battler to the boat, Rick climbed out to unhook and revive the tally before releasing her back into the tropical water. As he climbed back to the poling platform, Rick called my attention to a huge squall line headed our way. Wisely, he felt we should head back to port rather than suffer through this huge gray monster. It was a wise move, since the storm generated gale force winds and torrential rain that blotted out any safe fishing chances for the remainder of the afternoon. Rick and I mapped our contingency plans for the next day as we listened to weather reports back on the island.
Day Two- Hopes of a better day were realized when dawn revealed vastly diminished winds and a greater percentage of blue skies. We left early to maximize the fishing hours I had left. With the high water and low sun, Captain Rick could not resist the opportunity to take me to one of his favorite sunken wrecks. He had no problem finding the site with his handheld GPS and the obvious showering balao. In the few hours we waited for the falling tide, I quickly lost count of the large cero mackerel, big yellowtails, and fat mutton snapper I released using nothing more than an 8lb. spinning rig topped off with a short length of fluorocarbon leader. A white Spro bucktail sweetened with a fresh balao strip was all that was necessary.
As the tide finally began to fall, it was time to head back to the ultra-clear shallows. We quickly ran to a flat on the south side of the island. As we ran the drop-off, we flew over a school of about a hundred bonefish, all of them truly huge. Though the winds were picking up again, Captain Rick ably turned his skiff in pursuit and poled down the flat. We spotted a large mud about fifty feet away, and I made a good cast to the freshest part. In a replay of the day before, my line tightened up and I struck the fish. This was a longer fight, which resulted in the capture and release of a trophy ten-pound bonefish. Though we saw more bonefish on that flat, and all of them were quite large, a freshening wind and time constraints forced us to call it a day. All in all, I had an excellent experience with Captain Rick Sawyer, who expertly guided me in a habitat that may very well be home to the largest bonefish per square mile than any other destination in the Bahamas!
Bluff House Beach Hotel- Bluff House, as I call it, is one of the most beautiful island destinations in the world. Its noble Loyalist past helps create a historically based, Caribbean-motif resort that sits along the slopes atop one of the rare hills not just in the Abacos, but in all of the Bahamas. All the deluxe rooms and suites feature striking ocean views.The activities at Bluff House center around some of the finest fishing, boating, beaching, yachting, trekking, and exploring in the world. Do as little or as much as you want!
Bluff House has been consistent with their Atlantic hideaway philosophy: there are no televisions or phones in the rooms. However, there is a television in the lounge of the Clubhouse. There are also televisions with tapes and videos for rent. In the event of necessary communications, there are fax, internet, and phone services available in the main office.*Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served waterside at the Jolly Roger Bar and Bistro. Other special events can be handled at the Clubhouse atop the hill.* Bluff House features a delightful fresh water pool and newly refurbished tennis court. There are two gift shops at Bluff House. Aladdin’s Cave is located in the main office and The Low Tide Gift Shop is located next to the Jolly Roger* Bluff House offers a total range of top guides, services, and rentals for every conceivable fishing, boating, diving, and beach activity.*Golf cart rentals are available so you can explore the entirety of this magnificent island on your own.
WHEN YOU GO-
Bluff House Beach Hotel,
Green Turtle CayAbaco, Bahamas
1-800-745-4911
www.BluffHouse.comCaptain Rick Sawyer
Green Turtle CayAbaco, Bahamas
1-242-365-4261
www.AbacoFlyFish.comTRANSPORTATION- You can fly direct from Fort Lauderdale on Continental/Gulfstream to Treasure Cay, Abaco. Take a five- minute taxi ride from the airport to the Ferry Dock. The ferry, which runs every hour, will whisk you to Green Turtle Cay for $10.00 per person. Tell the pilot you’re going to Bluff House and they’ll have someone waiting as you get off right at the Bluff House Dock.NEW PLYMOUTH- Be sure to rent a golf cart and visit New Plymouth, which is the main town of Green Turtle Cay. Located on the southwest side of the island, it is one of the oldest townships in the Bahamas. Plan on visiting the Albert Lowe Museum, Vert’s Model Ships, The Loyalists’ Sculpture Garden, The Historic Jail, and the fine local restaurants and shops.
Jan Maizler for
Florida Sport Fishing Magazine
